I know where NC is, that's why I was confused by your statement. :lol2:


So you really aren't "all knowing"? FYI: "Location" is listed on every post.

 

She's referring to a pit dock. Very difficult to get out of but hardly worth a full set of chains. We come to exchange information and everyone turns into a smartazz.

 

Not everyone...just a select few!

 

I am "all knowing", I'm just not "all caring".:thumbsup:

 

If you've ever noticed, when you get stuck with a 4WD, you REALLY get stuck. That DOES apply to a truck as well. If you lock in the diff, when you spin-out, you REALLY SPIN-OUT. Locking them in DOES NOT GIVE YOU BETTER TRACTION. It does not change anything with relation to your contact to the road surface. It changes the way torque is applied to the wheels. It only insures that when wheels spin, more than one will spin. And, the more wheels you have spinning, the more likely you are to lose control.

Simply that. A 4-wheeler is not a combination vehicle. When a 4-wheeler breaks traction, the effect and result is generally not as dramatic as an 18-wheeler.


You might want to check with your mechanic about locking in the diffs and running a lot of miles that way. From the OK line to Amarillo isn't a short distance. Even brand new tires have a variation in diameter, and by locking in the diffs and running that distance, with a loaded trailer, you run a risk of excessive wear and even damage to the diffs. This is the reason for the "INTER-AXLE DIFFERENTIAL" to begin with. It allows each set of drives to turn at the rate it requires in order to maintain the given speed. Without this, the differentials in each axle can work against themselves and cause damage.

I've never looked into the "SMITH SYSTEM", but now, I plan to. I can envission a situation where jigging the wheel would put sideways momentum on the front of the truck, but the correction could happen over ice, and you would not be able to correct. Some 12,000 pounds going to the right, then refusing to go back to the left because you've lost the traction to be able to overcome the momentum to the right.

Most of the rigs I've seen jackknifed have gone out of control with the nose pointing toward the center of the road. (On icy roads. On dry roads, I haven't figured that one out yet.) But, every now and then, I see one that went the other way, and I have to wonder if they "jigged" the wheel.



And, the moisture content of the snow is determined by the temperature. Not just at the surface where you drive, but in the upper atmosphere as well. Western States generally put you up at a higher elevation which normally means colder air, and dryer snow. But, it's not a hard and fast rule. I've run through temps of 22 degrees F in WY with "WET WATER" coming down from the sky. When I got to MN, I had nearly 6,000 pounds of ice all over the rig. I believe it's called an INVERSION LAYER".

It should also be mentioned that even "dry" snow, when it's drifting across a salted road, is likely to be very slick because of the water content where the salt is doing some, but not enough melting. More than one driver has lost control in these patches.

And, Veil Pass as well.

 

I don't think anyone suggested a full set of chains ...But usining 1 real chain would be for most easier than piecing together a chain ,as most don't have these items around to make a chain.

 

Most people don't have a "real chain" either, so they go out and buy one before they need it.:roll2:

Just remember the "5 P's".....proper planning prevents poor performance.

 

While this is limited to the outside drives, it is not limited to the back axle. It can also be done for the front drive axle as well. A few lengths of light chain (heavier than dog chain) about 3 feet long, and the screw together link found at most hardware stores work great. And, there are at least two places on the rims where you can put them. With aluminum rims, even more. But, use it to get unstuck, then remove them. Do not try running with them like normal chains. Prolonged use will put marks into the rims.

 

I do remember another bit of advice that saved me one morning a couple of years ago. A driver told me that if I was stuck, try going to High Range and that may help.

Sure enough, I got stuck pulling out of a City of Indianapolis (read police department) fueling station. I tried everything and was about ready to give up and then remembered his advice. I put her in 6th, worked the clutch out and Bingo! I was on my way home. I've thanked that guy several times for that timely advice.

 

X2

I've done that several times. It's amazing what the little extra bit of torque will do. Just make sure you are giving it enough throttle to keep from stalling out.