Run away truck ramps.

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  #41  
Old 05-31-2007, 02:14 AM
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  #42  
Old 05-31-2007, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ben45750
But going down steep grades with doubles is a whole different beast, The brake lag causes you to hold the brakes longer than you would with a 53'. When you apply the brake you can almost count to 3 before you actually feel the brakes catch to the rear causing more pressure on the lead trailers axle (and thats the axle where the brakes are always smoking). Then you have the problem or the rear trailer's brakes locking and smoking the tires(less weight on the rear trailer), and more serious problem will happen when you going down a grade on a 35mph curve, brakes are glazing and smoking and your rear axle is locking up. You are actually relieved when you reach the bottom in one piece.
Ya think? :lol: :lol:
 
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  #43  
Old 05-31-2007, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ben45750
each truck is different though. We have small engines so lower gears don't help, brakes usually not adjusted so they heat up faster and equipment age has alot to do with it (or equipment is older so you have to take it easy on it)
I would think that you would have your brakes adjusted and then that wouldn't be a problem?

What ever gear you use to climb the hill should be used or one lower to come down and light steady pressure all the way to the bottom.
 
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  #44  
Old 05-31-2007, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ssoutlaw
Originally Posted by ben45750
each truck is different though. We have small engines so lower gears don't help, brakes usually not adjusted so they heat up faster and equipment age has alot to do with it (or equipment is older so you have to take it easy on it)
Do you think we had these big motors in the 70's and 80's??? Ya right. A big motor when I was new was a 400 cat. I drove plenty of 290's and 350's so the smaller motor theory is out the window! Because brake linings were not like they are now, the majority of drivers DID adjust their brakes at the brake check provided for us. Most drivers these days wouldn’t even begin to know how to adjust their own brakes! And by the way, we had even older equipment back then....lol The problem is new drivers are not taught how to be a DRIVER, just how to hold the steering wheel....lol
The only time I have had problems was on Sandstone, what my original post was about. Yeah I can adjust brakes my brakes but in a Union company it's a "thats not my job" thing so I take it to the shop the mechanics do their thing and I'm on my way. 7% grade for 7 miles with three 35mph curves, the last two of them opposite banked. Light steady pressure will not slow you down when your grossing 78k with no jake.

It's not an old timer or newbie thing, it's a going to fast thing along with common sense.

It's really not our fault, they (was on my written part of my CDL test...... I'm a "newbie" I remember my CDL test)....... teach us to:

Proper Braking Technique

Remember: The use of brakes on a long and/or steep downgrade is only a supplement to the braking effect of the engine. Once the vehicle is in the proper low gear, the following is a proper braking technique.

1. Apply the brakes just hard enough to feel a definite slowdown.

2. When your speed has been reduced to approximately 5 m.p.h. below your “safe” speed, release the brakes. (This brake application should last for about three (3) seconds.)

3. When your speed has increased to your “safe” speed, repeat steps 1 and 2. For example, if your “safe” speed is 40 m.p.h., you would not apply the brakes until your speed reaches 40 m.p.h. You now apply the brakes hard enough to gradually reduce your speed to 35 m.p.h. and then release the brakes. Repeat this as often as necessary until you have reached the end of the downgrade.


I really hope your not training "newbies" to drive.
 
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  #45  
Old 05-31-2007, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ben45750
Proper Braking Technique

Remember: The use of brakes on a long and/or steep downgrade is only a supplement to the braking effect of the engine. Once the vehicle is in the proper low gear, the following is a proper braking technique.

1. Apply the brakes just hard enough to feel a definite slowdown.

2. When your speed has been reduced to approximately 5 m.p.h. below your “safe” speed, release the brakes. (This brake application should last for about three (3) seconds.)

3. When your speed has increased to your “safe” speed, repeat steps 1 and 2. For example, if your “safe” speed is 40 m.p.h., you would not apply the brakes until your speed reaches 40 m.p.h. You now apply the brakes hard enough to gradually reduce your speed to 35 m.p.h. and then release the brakes. Repeat this as often as necessary until you have reached the end of the downgrade.
Yeah--lightly applying the brakes all the way down the hill didn't quite sit well with me. Years ago that may have been the way it was taught/learned, but your right--it is taught differently now.

Thanks for the reminder ben45750.
 
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  #46  
Old 05-31-2007, 03:03 AM
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:13 AM
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Totally agree,I would never trust some mechanic with my life when it comes to adjusting brakes I do them,and from your post I don't feel that your way of braking is correct,if I remember correctly you stated you had them smoking a few times.....I am always maxed out on weight and use the method I described and never have brakes smoking,proper gear selection and light brake pressure will always get you to the bottom.
 
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  #48  
Old 05-31-2007, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ssoutlaw
...Do you know when you use your brakes down a hill then let up, you are feeding air to a already hot metal surface therefore adding more heat when just a minute later you use the brakes again and that keeps adding to your overheating problem!!!
Interesting. I hadn't thought about that....
 
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  #49  
Old 05-31-2007, 03:20 AM
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Dont mind me, I have made it all these years, raised 2 families, and still hittin it hard, what the hell do I know. Let the newbie teach them...lol :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:22 AM
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It takes a while without the brakes applied for the wind to cool down a brake!!!
 
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