That's what the problem was. I left the pins out. 3 of the 4 pins cleared the slide rail with no problem. The 4th pin was screwed up. It was at sort of an angle and allowed the tandems to slide backwards, but wouldn't come forward (like a ratchet). I literally destroyed my own 2 chocks and 2 of T/A's. The mechanic also had to mechanically overtighten the brakes along with the pin-beating.

 

Sorry to hijack but hobo, fredog, have yall seen that stuff called "Knock'er Loose"?? It smells like Pine-sol and works WAY better than WD-40 or PB Blaster. Fastenal can get it and it's about the same price as the other two. Had a bolt that wouldn't loosen up, WD-40 didn't do a thing, PB Blaster barely did anything but the KL pulled it loose in 5 minutes with my barefingers. I had a wrench on it with the other 2 and it would not budge.

 

if it works better than pb blaster, I will have to get some. I have been real impressed with pb blaster

 

where can you find this stuff "Knock'er Loose" or PB Blaster?

With werner trailers you need a hammer (bigger the better), pin puller, vise grips, at least 2 other hands and somebody in the cab.

Sliding tandems on hills, yes. I've used Gutters, potholes, wheel chocks and a few other things to help.

 

dle, Fastenal has it, if they don't, they can get it. Your in Texas right, place out of Irving, TX makes the same stuff(or they re-label it with their own name,) Certified Industries or Certified Tech Industries is the name of the place. The "Knock'er Loose" companies name is CRC.

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...nockloose.aspx
http://www.labsafety.com/store/item/144929/

Looks like Fastenal is a little more expensive to buy a pack of 12 cans vs that LabSafety online store.

 

Sooo.... how much stock DO you own in this company, you ole snake oil salesman, you??? :lol: :lol:

Just kidding!! I'll look for it!

 

:lol: HA :lol:

My companies mechanic's are giving it a try. So far it works great, we had been using PB Blaster for the past 2 years.

 

Okay, I see more clearly what you are asking. The answer is yes, BUT....

First, do as I suggested to any trailer that even LOOKS real rusty, while it is still empty. Slide forward and back to spread the silicone and "grease the rails."

IF they make you slide them all the way back, then you must. But, if NOT... preposition them close to where to think they'll end up.

You know how the hill leads down to a flat area just in front of the dock?? Well, when you pull forward, do NOT leave your two tandem axlex "split" over this dip, and it is best to not even leave them on the flat area. You will be trying to push the trailer from an ANGLE not in line with the two axles. Does that make sense?

Pull forward enough to where the two axles are at the same "angle" as the trailer going down the hill. Now, you will be pushing in a straight line!

If your rails are properly greased, and your tandem brakes properly adjusted, you should be able to slide them either way you want.... even tho you are on a hill. If the brakes aren't perfect, use the wheel chock.

Like I said, I once pulled forward far enough to where my axles were split over the ridge at the top of the hill. I was kinda surprised they slid, but I had greased them, and I wasn't all that heavy.

Also, make sure the ground is level (side to side.) They won't slide if the trailer is "jacked."

 

I am sure I will learn this in school, BUT, how do you know WHERE to position the tandems, 5th wheel, etc to make it legal?

 

For those of you that have the type of pin release where you have to pull the rod straight out and then lock it into a slot, find a piece of a pallet that is wedge shaped and push it into opening above the locking slot, this will keep the rod from jumping out of the slot while trying to get the pins to release.