sliding tandems

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  #11  
Old 09-23-2007, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredog
Originally Posted by Malaki86
Adjusting your tandems when empty doesn't always work - especially when the shipper tells you to slide the tandems all the way to the rear before they'll load you.

I had a place do that a few weeks ago. Tandems slid back fine when empty, but once loaded they wouldn't slide forward. Turns out one of the pins in the trailer wasn't pulling out all the way. It took almost 2 hours at a T/A and moving the trailer ever so slowly 1 pin at a time with a mechanic under the trailer beating on the pin the entire time.

when you slide your tandems at a dock. leave the pin out. put your parking brakes on, chock the wheels, it wont go anywhere, then you can pull out and easily slide them back to where you want them after you load/unload
That's what the problem was. I left the pins out. 3 of the 4 pins cleared the slide rail with no problem. The 4th pin was screwed up. It was at sort of an angle and allowed the tandems to slide backwards, but wouldn't come forward (like a ratchet). I literally destroyed my own 2 chocks and 2 of T/A's. The mechanic also had to mechanically overtighten the brakes along with the pin-beating.
 
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2007, 02:58 PM
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Sorry to hijack but hobo, fredog, have yall seen that stuff called "Knock'er Loose"?? It smells like Pine-sol and works WAY better than WD-40 or PB Blaster. Fastenal can get it and it's about the same price as the other two. Had a bolt that wouldn't loosen up, WD-40 didn't do a thing, PB Blaster barely did anything but the KL pulled it loose in 5 minutes with my barefingers. I had a wrench on it with the other 2 and it would not budge.
 
  #13  
Old 09-23-2007, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Ford95
Sorry to hijack but hobo, fredog, have yall seen that stuff called "Knock'er Loose"?? It smells like Pine-sol and works WAY better than WD-40 or PB Blaster. Fastenal can get it and it's about the same price as the other two. Had a bolt that wouldn't loosen up, WD-40 didn't do a thing, PB Blaster barely did anything but the KL pulled it loose in 5 minutes with my barefingers. I had a wrench on it with the other 2 and it would not budge.
if it works better than pb blaster, I will have to get some. I have been real impressed with pb blaster
 
  #14  
Old 09-23-2007, 04:31 PM
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where can you find this stuff "Knock'er Loose" or PB Blaster?

With werner trailers you need a hammer (bigger the better), pin puller, vise grips, at least 2 other hands and somebody in the cab.

Sliding tandems on hills, yes. I've used Gutters, potholes, wheel chocks and a few other things to help.
 
  #15  
Old 09-23-2007, 04:50 PM
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dle, Fastenal has it, if they don't, they can get it. Your in Texas right, place out of Irving, TX makes the same stuff(or they re-label it with their own name,) Certified Industries or Certified Tech Industries is the name of the place. The "Knock'er Loose" companies name is CRC.

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...nockloose.aspx
http://www.labsafety.com/store/item/144929/

Looks like Fastenal is a little more expensive to buy a pack of 12 cans vs that LabSafety online store.
 
  #16  
Old 09-23-2007, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Ford95
Sorry to hijack but hobo, fredog, have yall seen that stuff called "Knock'er Loose"?? It smells like Pine-sol and works WAY better than WD-40 or PB Blaster. Fastenal can get it and it's about the same price as the other two. Had a bolt that wouldn't loosen up, WD-40 didn't do a thing, PB Blaster barely did anything but the KL pulled it loose in 5 minutes with my barefingers. I had a wrench on it with the other 2 and it would not budge.
Sooo.... how much stock DO you own in this company, you ole snake oil salesman, you??? :lol: :lol:

Just kidding!! I'll look for it!
 
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  #17  
Old 09-23-2007, 04:56 PM
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:lol: HA :lol:

My companies mechanic's are giving it a try. So far it works great, we had been using PB Blaster for the past 2 years.
 
  #18  
Old 09-23-2007, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Redlight
Thanks, I was at a dock that was on a hill and I pulled forward a bit to slide my tandems forward since they were all they way back ,this was in the underground road in Kansas city, and I wanted to beable to turn it better I was told you cant do it on a hill, since I am new I said ok thanks and had heck of a time getting the truck out of the dock.
Okay, I see more clearly what you are asking. The answer is yes, BUT....

First, do as I suggested to any trailer that even LOOKS real rusty, while it is still empty. Slide forward and back to spread the silicone and "grease the rails."

IF they make you slide them all the way back, then you must. But, if NOT... preposition them close to where to think they'll end up.

You know how the hill leads down to a flat area just in front of the dock?? Well, when you pull forward, do NOT leave your two tandem axlex "split" over this dip, and it is best to not even leave them on the flat area. You will be trying to push the trailer from an ANGLE not in line with the two axles. Does that make sense?

Pull forward enough to where the two axles are at the same "angle" as the trailer going down the hill. Now, you will be pushing in a straight line!

If your rails are properly greased, and your tandem brakes properly adjusted, you should be able to slide them either way you want.... even tho you are on a hill. If the brakes aren't perfect, use the wheel chock.

Like I said, I once pulled forward far enough to where my axles were split over the ridge at the top of the hill. I was kinda surprised they slid, but I had greased them, and I wasn't all that heavy.

Also, make sure the ground is level (side to side.) They won't slide if the trailer is "jacked."
 
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2007, 05:13 PM
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I am sure I will learn this in school, BUT, how do you know WHERE to position the tandems, 5th wheel, etc to make it legal?
 
  #20  
Old 09-23-2007, 05:35 PM
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For those of you that have the type of pin release where you have to pull the rod straight out and then lock it into a slot, find a piece of a pallet that is wedge shaped and push it into opening above the locking slot, this will keep the rod from jumping out of the slot while trying to get the pins to release.
 
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