The way I figure it, I saved 200 pounds on each of my drive axles going to singles so that basically compensates for the 425 pounds of my TriPac. On my 2007 780 the TriPac sits just in front of my driver's-side 150-gal fuel tank. It is about 3/4ths unblocked once you take off the step fairing with the handles: the other 1/4 or so is blocked by the second fairing which has to come off if they have to pop the cover off of the APU.

Note also there is a federal reg in play that lets you go up to 80,400 lbs if you are APU equipped so long as the extra over 80,000 is on your drives. However, not all states recognize this so you could be rolling dice there.

As far as cost for the rims and wheels, it cost me about 4,000 but that also included new Michelin steers and those rims as well. You might want to ask your company if they have an account that you can use to get their discounts on any tire purchases.

My original math on the switch was using $100,000 a year in fuel (probably high, considering I'm pretty much a miser when it comes to fuel) and 4% better fuel economy (probably low). If they last two full years, they've paid for themselves and their rims twice over.

Good luck,

Jim

 

Malaki, before even considering buying the truck, get the following done:

1) full vehicle history report, carfax, or the like. May not show everything, but it's a start.

2) Pull an ECM report. Make sure the mileage matches, check for codes, etc..

3) Get an independent shop to check over the truck, especially large items such as:

- turbocharger(check in and out play)
- Air compressor
- AC compressor(check the charge as well, a low charge indicates a leak)
- CAC/radiator (pressurize CAC and check for psi loss)
- clutch/crossshaft (if possible)
- Brakes (get them to take one steer wheel off, and one drive axle off, and measure how much pads and drums are left, to give you an idea)
- Fifth wheel for any slack

Don't sweat the small stuff, that's just the part of owning a truck.

4) Get cummins to check the engine, dyno it(with blowby) and maybe do a compression check. Do an oil sample. Definitely do an idle injector test. Get their opinion, I know certain years of the ISX in the early 2000's were not good. Take your serial number in and talk to them(or call).

5) Get service records, your company should have them(required by law). Cummins and Volvo will have service records of stuff done under warranty.

I have a huge list of things you should do after you buy it as well(air dryer service, power steering fluid/filter, bypass oil filter, etc..)

Do the oil sample, ECM report first. If everything checks out, do all the other stuff as well.

 

Another thing:

Please consider the purchase of your truck(I'd prefer it if you bought the truck, not leased) and "leasing on" to the carrier as two totally seperate transactions. Put equal energy and research into both.

 

Thanks for that info. When/if I get closer, I'll take the truck in to have it thoroughly checked out at the local Volvo dealer. My company already does the oil analysis on all trucks. I'm sure they'll let me get a copy of the reports. Also, they're very thorough on the maintenance. The do an A service every 10k and a B every 30k.

There are 2 things about the truck that I'm sure need work:
1 - The tractor's ABS wiring harness needs replaced. They've already checked the sensor's out. This is typical on the Volvo's.

2 - The engine brake doesn't have as much hold-back power as it should. I've tried to get the shop to adjust it, but they never have. They took the truck out bobtail and flipped the switch on high and said the engine brake works fine. Ya - add about 60k more weight behind the truck and a 8% downgrade and see how good it is. Anyway, I'm sure it needs an overhead or at the very least a rack adjustment.

Off topic, but this should be an easy question:

When you lease onto a carrier (you own the truck), are you contracted to them for a specific time period or can you leave at will if need be?

 

Same problem with mine, splice in new GOOD quality wiring from the ABS unit all the way to the connector on the axle. You'll know what I mean.

You can always test it by "swapping" the harness side to side at the rear. They actually give you enough slack to do this.

If the code stays the same, it's the wiring. If the code switches sides, it's the sensor.

 

different rules for different carriers. my contract says I must give 15 days notice or forfeit whatever pay I have coming..

 

Most carriers have an "At will" contract. In other words, either of you can cancel the contract at any time and for any reason. It is always a good idea to read any contract thoroughly. As Fredog mentioned, some contracts may be worded differently.

 

Malaki...is the truck a 770 or 780....As far as tires I strongly recommend you not put retreads on it. I have a 2004 670 and I HAD RETREADS on the drives. One of them blew and took my last fairing that has the step rail for the cat walk with it. It also bent one side of the cat walk and tore off the black piece between the tires and the tank. Also if you are really considering buying the truck see what comparable sells go for on truckpaper.com. Then have them repair any and everything while it"s still a company truck. I am about to get a tripac apu installed on mine this week and it will be placed under the passenger side under the fairings in front of the fuel tank. I was told you need 27 inches of space by thermoking.

 

Being an '02, I'm almost positive it's a 770. I think the 780 came out in '04. The same truck & specs on TruckPaper go anywhere from $24k to 60k. The only problem I see with installing an apu under the fairing on this truck is the fact that the fairing is bolted into place. The '04+ Volvo's have quick release fairings (2 large handles).

I did like the idea (somewhat) of downsizing one tank by 50 gallons, turning it so that the tank hole is accessible under the passenger door and mounting the apu at the far-rear under the cab. Right now, both tanks are filled at the far rear of the cab.

 

here's my question, why is the company waiting untill now, 876,000 miles to upgrade there fleet?...most companies ive heard of change out at around 400,000