Should I or shouldnt I?

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  #21  
Old 05-04-2007, 03:46 PM
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Nobody cares about my flatbed being air ride or not and nobody has ever checked. Only one place inspected the floor of my trailer for holes and that was he government.

When I was looking for a flatbed I did the Ebay thing. I found 3 trailers close to me that looked great. Tons of pictures. When I drove out to look at them I would not have taken them if they gave them to me. All 3 would have taken over $10,000 to fix them up and they wanted $10,000 for them to boot.
 
  #22  
Old 05-04-2007, 06:18 PM
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Thks Steve, yeah this guys only 15 minutes away so worth a look eh?.......yeah he had an air-ride, and a dealer in Dallas had some for 9-10k that didnt look too bad, if I have to get Ca plates, cuz the tags would expire, good to know their not too much......thks no worries
Say Steve...thks, but you an haul flatbed, are you really up on what dry van brokers want, sorry to doubt you, just cautious, maybe I should call some brokers and see? I just got a supscription to two load boards a few days ago...one is get-loaded of course, can also ask them if they want my proof of insurance ahead of time and kill two birds eh?
 
  #23  
Old 05-04-2007, 07:00 PM
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Not sure who wants your proof of insurance. The load boards don't care, they just want to make sure you have a valid MC and DOT. As far as proof of insurance for carrying a load, the customer will require a fax directly from your insurance company. They do not accept a copy that you send them. Anyone can make one of those. I'm not sure why customers just can't look up the government web site to verify insurance.
 
  #24  
Old 05-04-2007, 07:23 PM
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yeah called a broker off the load board, not the board itself lol.
He e-mailed me some big damn packet I have to print out and return myself, in addition to wanting the proof of insurance certificate ;-p
Yeah he said that although he doesnt always require air-ride he suggested he knew I would get more buiz with an air-ride.
Yeah your 100% right that I will need a scanner,printer combo, at the house now, and using my godbrothers now, if I was on-the-road I would be screwed without 1, unable to print my e-mail without 1. Sounds like I need to take this time now, since I am waiting to find a trailer, to possibly set some possibilities up now, since I have access to a printer to print my e-mails.
 
  #25  
Old 05-04-2007, 10:30 PM
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Hmmm this is the one I am buying, said I would give him 6,500 if he would close the deal now, said I could test haul it a block in the morning and to come ove....whata you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...spagenameZWDVW
 
  #26  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:52 AM
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Pepe...I saved this from a long ago post, can't remember who posted it. Thought it might help you:

Buying a used dry van: What to look for

Brake hubs and bearings.

I lost a set of duals on a used dry box only 800 miles down the road - because of a dry well.

Brakes, tires, air lines. Check to see if the floor is straight, look at the interior and check for damage and repaired damage. Look for any signs of water leaks everywhere. Look under the trailer along the crossmembers and check for cracks. Look at the suspension and check for any abnormal wear and cracks. Check the shocks for any oil leakage.

Basically check all of the undercarriage for cracks along any seams. While under the trailer, check out the wiring. Brittle wiring means trouble down the road. Nowadays, most wiring is encased in shrink-tube or a plastic sheath of some sort.
Operate the doors, check all lights to see if they are working. Now! Pull the trailer and see how it stops and make sure it pulls straight.

Check the welds where the landing gear is mounted to the cross members, and the welds for the slides. Inspect the wood floor from the bottom to see if there has been a plate used to repair a hole in the floor. Inspect all the cable from front to back to make sure if it was spliced for any reason, it was a good job done. Also look closely at the front bulkhead. Many times, when loading rolls of paper, the forklift operator will hit the bulkhead and can cut into the wiring cable at floor level. Watch for cross members, under the trailer, that are bowed down in the center.

Also, if you're planning to haul heavy loads, make sure you have metal channels in the walls, not the foam supports that will allow the lower part of the outer walls to curl under at the tandems. (It's a bit embarrassing to be going down the road and suddenly realize your tandems are up inside the trailer because the walls were never made to handle the load you are carrying. Trailers made for the bakery industry are not good for hauling bricks, plywood, or paper.)
 
  #27  
Old 05-05-2007, 03:11 AM
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hy not lease/rent one for the time being and then if you want a trailer on the other side of the continen, take a "power only" load down to the purchase place of your new one?
 
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  #28  
Old 05-05-2007, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by pepe4158
yeah called a broker off the load board, not the board itself lol.
He e-mailed me some big damn packet I have to print out and return myself, in addition to wanting the proof of insurance certificate ;-p
Yeah he said that although he doesnt always require air-ride he suggested he knew I would get more buiz with an air-ride.
Yeah your 100% right that I will need a scanner,printer combo, at the house now, and using my godbrothers now, if I was on-the-road I would be screwed without 1, unable to print my e-mail without 1. Sounds like I need to take this time now, since I am waiting to find a trailer, to possibly set some possibilities up now, since I have access to a printer to print my e-mails.

Pepe, you better get used to the packets. Every time you start working with a new broker they will send you their packet. Most seem to run from about 10-20 pages. Personally, I like a brief, simple contract.

I would opt for the air ride van, but would go with the one I could get the best deal starting out. There are a few shippers who will require a spring ride trailer, but most won't even ask. Air ride is much easier on the cargo than spring ride. I would make certain to get a trailer with logistics posts and either I-Track or E-Track.
 
  #29  
Old 05-05-2007, 03:50 AM
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Thks G-man for the response,yeah i think its standard post, not logistic, hmmmm the e-track is the row of strap connections in the inside of the trailer....unsure what it was, first trailer i ever bought ;-p
 
  #30  
Old 05-05-2007, 04:04 AM
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The logistics posts give extra security and support for the sides of your trailer. It won't make much difference with light loads, but if you put a heavy load on it could make a difference. For instance, you don't want to load rolls of carpet on a trailer without logistics posts. If you do, your trailer will look like it is pregnant going down the highway. :shock:
 




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