Eaton Fuller transmission....
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
Eaton Fuller transmission....
I have a 1997 International 9200 with a 10 speed Eaton Fuller transmission. Shifting 4/5 and 9/10 is very difficult..... All other gears shift very easy. Also seems there is no clutch brake working. Anyone have any suggestions what is wrong with my transmission...?
#3
Originally Posted by allan5oh
describe difficult, is it stiff, or doesn't go into gear easy, what exactly?
Your clutch needs to be adjusted, although that probably isn't related to the hard shifting. Have you measured the pedal free travel or release bearing clearance through internet telepathy? The fact that the clutch brake isn't working could be due to a failed clutch brake (tabs torn off where it engages the mainshaft), or the clutch brake may be out of adjustment. Adjusting the clutch brake involves adjusting the external linkage to get the correct clutch brake squeeze with the pedal slightly off the floor. Adjusting the clutch itself must be done by turning the adjuster on the pressure plate until the pedal free travel is in spec (usually about 2 inches) or until there is 1/8 inch clearance between the throwout bearing and release fork with the clutch engaged.
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If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.
#5
Re: Eaton...
Originally Posted by shatski
The shift is extremely stiff.....clutch feels perfectly normal when shifting into the other gears.
Remove the boot around the bottom of the shifter where it goes thru the floor and check for clearance around the shifter when it is all the way to the right. If it is binding against the cab floor, you may have an engine mount problem causing the engine and trans to be tilted to the right (loose bolts attaching the mount to the bellhousing, worn out rubber insulators, imminent total failure of the right side engine mount brackets etc.) If no mount problems are evident, then enlarge the shifter hole in the floorboard slightly on the right side to give adequate clearance when the shifter is in 4/5 and 9/10..
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If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
Posts: 3,280
Originally Posted by Splitshifter
How do you know that his clutch needs to be adjusted?
Have you measured the pedal free travel or release bearing clearance through internet telepathy? The fact that the clutch brake isn't working could be due to a failed clutch brake (tabs torn off where it engages the mainshaft), or the clutch brake may be out of adjustment. Adjusting the clutch brake involves adjusting the external linkage to get the correct clutch brake squeeze with the pedal slightly off the floor. Adjusting the clutch itself must be done by turning the adjuster on the pressure plate until the pedal free travel is in spec (usually about 2 inches) or until there is 1/8 inch clearance between the throwout bearing and release fork with the clutch engaged.
#7
Originally Posted by allan5oh
Because.... don't 9200's have hydraulic clutches? Either the clutch brake is getting the proper squeeze or it isn't, and either the free travel before the release fork contacts the throwout bearing is correct or it isn't. The method of motion transfer from the pedal to the clutch throwout shaft is immaterial. Anyhow, I don't think he has a clutch problem or it would be exhibiting symptoms in all speeds, and how would the clutch brake come into the picture shifting into 4/5 or 9/10?
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If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
Posts: 3,280
I stated that the clutch has nothing to do with the hard shifting previously, but there are 2 separate issues here.
I was under the impression that hydraulic setups don't really need to be adjusted. Please educate me if I'm wrong.
#9
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mid Michigan
Posts: 155
Shatski I have a 1996 9200 IH with a Eaton 10 speed. My shifter isolator was worn out bad, causing me to have problems with 4 & 9. The isolator is under the shifter boot, it is part of the shaft just above the tower. It will either have a bolt going through it with a lock nut or a pin with a snap ring on each side. You can either get a entire rebuild kit for about $50 if I remember right or a bushing kit for about $15
If you put a entire kit on it it will require 5/8" or 3/4" drill and maybe a drill press and a torch to burn the old rubber and metal bushing out. Also if you take the shifting tower off ( it is easy to do just 4 bolts and it comes up out of the hole in floor) there is a spring and rubber/fiber o-ring that the shifter swivels in. This was wore out on mine causing metal to metal. If you do this make sure you don't lose the detent springs when you pull the tower up, and there is a gasket. I might not of called a few things by there proper name, maybe Spitshifter can help out here. When I replaced these parts it helped my 4th and 9th shift allot mostly my 9th because I wasn't able to push the shifter to the top right far enough to get it in the hole. Hope this makes sense and helps Mike
#10
Originally Posted by allan5oh
Originally Posted by Splitshifter
How do you know that his clutch needs to be adjusted?
Have you measured the pedal free travel or release bearing clearance through internet telepathy? The fact that the clutch brake isn't working could be due to a failed clutch brake (tabs torn off where it engages the mainshaft), or the clutch brake may be out of adjustment. Adjusting the clutch brake involves adjusting the external linkage to get the correct clutch brake squeeze with the pedal slightly off the floor. Adjusting the clutch itself must be done by turning the adjuster on the pressure plate until the pedal free travel is in spec (usually about 2 inches) or until there is 1/8 inch clearance between the throwout bearing and release fork with the clutch engaged. ... no
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