Inboard & Outboard System???

Thread Tools
  #11  
Old 08-19-2007, 03:30 AM
Papa Rick's Avatar
Board Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 476
Default

This is what the estimate is for:


Part Each Part Total
2 equalizers (2 bolt 3" wide) 62.50 125.00
2 adjustable Stablizers 43.20 86.40
2 Stationary Stablizers 30.00 60.00
4 Wheel Seals 26.50 106.00
4 Cam Bushing Kits 26.50 106.00
4 Hub Cap Gaskets (6 Hole) 1.25 5.00
4 Manual Slack Adjusters 15.75 63.00
2 Equalizer Bolts with nuts 15.60 31.20
1 Bolt grade 8 5"x5/8 2.50 2.50
Misc - Oil, etc 50.00

635.10
Tax 31.75
Sub Total: 668.85
14 Hrs Labor 700.00

Total Estamate: $1366.85


Does this seem fair since it is an inboard type axles??
 
__________________
Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!
  #12  
Old 08-19-2007, 06:28 PM
Papa Rick's Avatar
Board Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 476
Default

I found a pair of axles (outboard) for $1000.00, plus the labor to put them in will be 14 hours.

I am thinking about getting this done all at the same time. Would you suggest doing this or waiting?
 
__________________
Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!
  #13  
Old 08-19-2007, 07:23 PM
Guest
Guest
Posts: n/a
Default

Papa rick if I was you I would put those outboard axles under may cost you a little more now but in the long term will save you money since with every brake job you will not be changing the wheel seals. Here is a another money saver have the mechanic pack the bearings in grease instead of oil will last longer and less likely to leak. The roberson companies did that and had a 2 year service interval on the trailer hubs and hardly ever had a seal leak that way. Also most seals will last at least 2 brake jobs nowadays with the improvements in seals.
 
  #14  
Old 08-20-2007, 11:08 PM
bob h's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nb
Posts: 752
Default

Originally Posted by Part Time Dweller
Originally Posted by SilverWulf

Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly.
So, how do you go about changing the brake drum? Or are you one of those that thinks the drums can make it through 3 sets of linings? :roll:
he's referring to an inboard system, the hub has to be pulled first to remove the drum
 
__________________
Bob H
  #15  
Old 08-21-2007, 12:15 AM
Part Time Dweller's Avatar
Board Regular
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Western Chicago Suburb, IL
Posts: 442
Default

I know that, but he is bragging about the ease of using a wheel dolly and less lifting. My point is, he must not be changing drums, as it is a PIA to do so on a wheel dolly. So, if he isn't changing drums, he isn't doing a complete brake job.
 
  #16  
Old 08-23-2007, 02:05 PM
bob h's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nb
Posts: 752
Default

Originally Posted by Part Time Dweller
I know that, but he is bragging about the ease of using a wheel dolly and less lifting. My point is, he must not be changing drums, as it is a PIA to do so on a wheel dolly. So, if he isn't changing drums, he isn't doing a complete brake job.

he is if the drum is serviceable


spoke wheel drums are easier to change on a dolly imo
 
__________________
Bob H



Reply Subscribe

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT. The time now is 05:40 AM.

Top