I just noticed when i fueled today the left tank must have a small crack in it behind the support strap about 3/4 the way up the side. I t began dripping down the back side of the tank. My question is, on a Pete 379, can I shut the valves on top of the right tank in order to draw down the left tank quicker, then open the right tank valves, close the left tank valves and not use the left tank till I can fix it? Or does the engine just draw fuel from the left tank and rely on the right tank to bleed over? Or vice versa? I dont want to starve it and have it die on me if Ive got one tank shut off. Thanks

 

I believe the fuel is drawn off the right tank, but I could be wrong.

 

Well, after some experimenting with the valves today, I learned that the engine draws from both tanks, you can shut either side off and it will draw from the other..good to know that! Now, does anyone have any suggestions on how to patch a crack in an aluminum tank? Besides taking it off and welding it, how about j b weld? or some othe epoxy solution?. I may just find another tank, I wont know the extent of the crack till I get it off the truck and survey it.

 

JB Weld is good stuff and it might work for a Temporary Fix

 

I have a small hole in my tank under the strap too. Mine only leaked when the tank was filled right to the brim. I used an epoxy stick and the strap squeezed it into place. That was almost five years ago and it hasn't leaked since.

 

they sell a epoxy type sealer that resists fuel & other solvents. at walmart. this may work well for you.

 

I used an epoxy stick like that for a leak on the bottom of fuel tank on my pick up, it lasted for years. The hardest part is cleaning ALL the fuel off it (it said it would stick to a leaking GAS tank). Give it a try, just clean it up with a spray can of brake clean, rough it up a little put it on. If that dosn't work you might find a welding shop that will TIG weld it on the truck without having to drain it. ( as long as fuel level is below the weld area)

 

Just do it the right way. Get it welded.

Usually the area under the straps is corroded all the way around the tank, so the best method is to weld a band over the entire area that is corroded.

This may make it tough to get the straps back on due to the slightly increased diameter of the tank in the repaired area, but you can then weld an extension on the T bolt on one end of the straps if necessary.

I always air test the tank after welding and before re installation to be sure there are no pinholes in the welds.

If you're still considering one of those temporary methods, just keep in mind that a dripping leak anywhere in the fuel system (including the tank)
will put you OOS if you get inspected.

The right way is the best way.

 

that's why I said fuel tank instead of gas tank, it has a 6.2L diesel in it 435,000 miles :lol: paid for itself many times over!