Injector timing?

 

Its not timing, its fuel delivery. it fine tunes very small differences in fuel delivered by the injector. Over thousands of injector strokes they won't all deliver exactly the same amount of fuel. The trim codes help adjust for that. The ecm will fire the injector slightly longer or shorter to compensate. Hope this helps, i'm not the best at explaining things sometimes.

 

all new injectors installed. still water temp running higher than normal. shop mgr said could be air to air prob, but did not elaborate??? other than trying a new water pump. i'm out of idea's. last water pump put on 2 years ago. new rad, recent, all new hoses,thermos e.t.c. what should i look for on my air to air. also had air coller leak tested. it's o.k.

 

That would be the charge air cooler he is referring to. This is up in front of the radiator, it cools the air that comes out of the turbo before it goes into the intake.

If it, or any of the piping have a leak, then the air going into the engine isn't getting cooled enough and will make the engine run hot. You will especially notice this on a grade. If you had a pyrometer, you would be able to tell if this is the problem,as your exhaust and coolant temp will rise together more than they should.

The best thing to do is have the charge air cooler and the plumbing pressure tested. With a million+ miles on the truck, it is quite possible that this could be the problem.

 

yes that is when it gets hot quick. going up a grade. i have no pyrometer though. will have it checkedd out thank you

 

is there a way for me to check my self for leaks? when i had new rad put in, the air cooler was checked & found no leaks. so i guess it will have to be elswhere in the sys. most shops around here want you to make an appoint & then keep your truck for a couple day's.

 

If you think the cooler is good, then check all the rubber connecting tubes and clamps on the system. There should be 3-4" piping that comes out of the turbo, to one side of the cooler, then out the other side to the intake on the engine. Look for loose clamps and bad connectors..

As far as the cooler itself, you would need to disconnect it then block off one end and pressurize the other. DO NOT put more than 10- 15 lbs of pressure in it. If you can figure a way to do this, then spray around the cooler with soapy water and look for bubbles. If you take it to a shop, they have two caps they clamp on, one is sealed, the other has an air fitting with a gauge and a shutoff so they can put air in it and see how much pressure it is loosing and how long it takes.

 

Do you have any logged ECM codes? You could have a crap sensor telling the ECM it is much warmer than it is actually. ECM then kicks on the fan and the gauge reads what the crap sensor is reading with actual temp low. Also make sure all the road debris and crap is steamed out of the ATA and rad. I don't mean blown out with a hose but remove the ATA and use hot pressurized water - you would be amazed at the amount of crud inbetween the fins after winter.

 

Do you do oil samples? If not it would be a good idea to take one....

 

[quote]Do you do oil samples? If not it would be a good idea to take one...


what can this have to do with temp ? I was also thinking about the air to air... if there is a leak in the air to air wouldnt there be a noticable decrease in power? I replaced the 2 air to air hoses just this wknd because they were on truck since I bought it. I remember a clamp breaking one time years ago on a air to air hose going to the turbo side & it lost over 60 % of it's power. I also thought about putting on new water pump. though i'm not sure if it would help. it does not leak. wondering if something else could fail on water pump to cause temp to rise. if i am idleing temp will go from 170 to 195 in less than 5 min. no water loss.. water pump has approx 300.000 mi on it. the 170 thermo's help a lot, but it's not what should be in there.