Truck won't start, and can't pinpoint why
#11
03-10-2009, 02:29 AM
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#12
03-10-2009, 02:41 AM
Why does the title of this thread sound so much like,,,,,,,,,,,
"Help! I've fallen and I can't get up":lol:
#13
03-10-2009, 02:53 AM
The key should feed power to the small solenoid on the top of the starter, either diredtly or through a relay & clutch switch if equipped. The small one feeds the big one thats part of the starter. My guess is you heard the small one clicking.....
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#14
03-11-2009, 12:29 AM
I'm scratching my head on this one. The truck won't start at all. Won't even turn over. I replaced the batteries and starter about 4 months ago (PACCAR deep cycle batteries, and Mitsubishi starter). When I turn the key to start it, I get nothing but a single click. I spent the past few hours charging the batteries off the generator, thinking they were low. The gauge is reading 13.5 volts when I turn the key to the "on" position, and all the lights and accessories are working properly.
I'm thinking it might possibly be the ignition switch that took a dump on me, because I noticed the other day that I could pull the key out when the truck was running. Having never had to replace an ignition switch, I honestly don't know if that would cause this problem. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
#15
03-11-2009, 05:00 PM
I'm scratching my head on this one. The truck won't start at all. Won't even turn over. I replaced the batteries and starter about 4 months ago (PACCAR deep cycle batteries, and Mitsubishi starter). When I turn the key to start it, I get nothing but a single click. I spent the past few hours charging the batteries off the generator, thinking they were low. The gauge is reading 13.5 volts when I turn the key to the "on" position, and all the lights and accessories are working properly.
I'm thinking it might possibly be the ignition switch that took a dump on me, because I noticed the other day that I could pull the key out when the truck was running. Having never had to replace an ignition switch, I honestly don't know if that would cause this problem. Any ideas on what might be causing this? ...excuse any repetition, as I haven't read the other replies yet... If the ignition switch is bad, you won't get the click under the hood. All you need is a test light... The click is usually the firewall switch which energizes the main solenoid on top of the starter body. The firewall switch has 2 large terminals; the first terminal is always hot, the second terminal should be hot ONLY when the ignition switch is turned to the crank position. So, if you turn the ignition to CRANK, and that 2nd terminal is hot, the switch is OK. ...that will lead you to test the starter/starter solenoid (let me know if you end up here). If the second large terminal doesn't turn hot during crank, then you must check for fire at the "small" terminal of the firewall switch, if it is hot, but the large 2nd terminal is not hot (in crank position), then the switch is bad. If there is no fire on the small terminal (careful, as there may be 2; a live and a ground), then the ignition circuit is lost, it comes from the dash switch or crank button (let me know if you end up here). Does that clear everything up?
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Bob H
#16
03-12-2009, 12:33 AM
Originally Posted by Rev.Vassago
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So you're saying I should jump from the post on the top (on the solenoid) down to the post coming out of the starter itself? No, that would create a dead short back to the battery. You're looking to close the connection between the two large posts on the starter solenoid, usually done with a flat srewdriver. If you jump the solenoid and the engine cranks; the starter motor is NOT your problem. If you jump the solenoid and the engine doesn't crank, then the starter is the problem. The starter cable that is on that large post at the end of the starter motor is probably connected to the frame rail of the truck - ground.
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Bob H
#17
03-12-2009, 07:55 AM
They never have for me. They say that is they have to way of seeing that the part is defective when you bring it in, then it's not defective...
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#18
03-12-2009, 11:53 AM
You may want to check to make sure all of the connections are tight. I had a driver who had a problem starting one of my trucks. He said he checked everything. I checked the batteries and found two cables were not tight. I tightened them down and they are working just fine now.
#19
03-14-2009, 10:44 PM
Some of you guys are confused. Rev's Mutsu*****y has the magnetic switch (which some of you mistakenly refer to as the solenoid) mounted right on the starter to reduce the voltage drop of the longer wires if it were mounted on the firewall. The magnetic switch is, in essence, a relay.
In Rev's pic the top thingy is the magnetic switch, the progressively larger middle thingy is the starter solenoid and the big thingy at the bottom is the starter. You can jump the mag switch to rule out the key switch and mag switch internals. If the key/button doesn't work, jump the two heavy studs on the mag switch. If it cranks, the problem is the smaller amperage wiring ie the key/button system or most likely, the mag switch itself. Best bang for the buck would be to replace the magnetic switch. If jumping the mag switch does zilch, jump the "B" (battery)(big red wire) terminal on the solenoid to the little "S" (start) terminal on the solenoid (where the wire comes from the mag switch). If'n it cranks now the solenoid and starter are okay. The problem is voltage drop in the wiring and time to break out the load tester and voltmeter. And when this starter pizzes you off for the last time, put a Delco 42 back on! Mechanics like the smaller, lighter Mitsubishis and Densos because they are lighter and throw-away - just r&r. Delcos are still the better starter as far as reliability. They are just a big heavy pain to handle but cheap to rebuild.
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#20
03-15-2009, 02:42 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
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If jumping the mag switch does zilch, jump the "B" (battery)(big red wire) terminal on the solenoid to the little "S" (start) terminal on the solenoid (where the wire comes from the mag switch). If'n it cranks now the solenoid and starter are okay. The problem is voltage drop in the wiring and time to break out the load tester and voltmeter.
And when this starter pizzes you off for the last time, put a Delco 42 back on! Mechanics like the smaller, lighter Mitsubishis and Densos because they are lighter and throw-away - just r&r. Delcos are still the better starter as far as reliability. They are just a big heavy pain to handle but cheap to rebuild.
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